December 8, 2010

Do you like this?

Beau Grille lead

Beau Schmidt's chicken sausage has achieved a national reputation.

It was around 1985 or '86 when I first discovered Chef Beau Schmidt cooking at Crocker's in the Valley. It didn't take me long to figure out that this guy, more or less self-taught (having opened his own restaurant at the tender age of 19, and getting all those early mistakes out of the way!) chef knew what he was doing with a variety of international cuisines.

After nine years with Crocker, Schmidt more or less took over that operation and, for the next seven years, he and a business partner operated Beau's Tavern In The Valley. This was a restaurant that was about as eclectic as they come, with a lot of emphasis on creole and southwest riffs with meat and fish, but always a counterpoint of some traditional European dishes. This was the place where his nationally recognized signature Chicken Sausage with Creole Mustard was first developed...an appetizer that is practically entree-sized, and which can best be described as “Poland meets the southern USA”.

This plate of mild, yet well-seasoned, chicken sausage links swimming in the flavorful mustard is as delightful as it sounds. The sausage is perfectly grilled, and the sauce is sublime...not overly sweet nor over-poweringly sharp...just right for a milder chicken-based link. Pair it up with homemade rolls, butter, and a glass of the right beer (and I was lucky enough to get Great Lakes Christmas Ale with mine!) and it a meal by itself.

Ten years ago, the Fairlawn Hilton joined the trend of bringing in top local chefs to develop first-class restaurants inside hotel properties. This was not unusual in the '20s and '30s, but by the '70s, most of the finest restaurants were stand-alone operations. Hotel operations are generally more complex because the food services must be offered on a 24/7 basis, the restaurant must develop a breakfast menu to go with lunch and dinner, and there will be banquet demands as well. For a long time, many of best classically trained chefs thought their personal reputations would be hidden or tarnished within the overall hotel business plan, where lodging and volume food service was emphasized.

When this began to change, it actually worked out better for many chefs, and fortunately, for the foodie culture too. Hotels have deeper pockets, for one thing, so money can be spent on room design, ambiance, and maintenance. Capital can also be invested in menu experimentation, and the best in kitchen equipment and line staff. By the turn of this century, it was not uncommon for the best cooks in any city to be found in the top of the line hotel dining rooms, and we certainly have two or three of the best here in Akron.

December 8, 2010

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