The taste of The 330 is on the move. With classic institutions setting the bar and trendy upstarts changing the game, local restaurants are making our mouths water in new ways. Whether you voted for the crispiest jojos, the freshest seafood or the hottest gastropub, our inaugural 330 Flavor Awards serve up what’s on the table now.
Tuned In
Impeccable service has made Ken Stewart’s Grille a cornerstone of Akron for nearly three decades.
Ken Stewart is a listener. Those good ears have put his eponymous restaurant, Ken Stewart’s Grille, on track to nearly 30 years in Akron. He trains his staff to listen to — and deliver on — what the customer wants, no matter how much extra effort it takes. If a diner asks for an ingredient the kitchen doesn’t have to be added to a dish, a worker will go to the store to purchase it. That above-and-beyond service makes an impression at the restaurant, which won a 330 Flavor Award for best restaurant in The 330.
“People really appreciate service — not lip service, but service,” Stewart says. “People remember it.”
Putting the diner first means serving food that is what it says it is — without additives or substitutes. A USDA prime steak is truly that grade. And if food suppliers deliver something that’s less than top-notch, the staff sends it back.
“We’re really fussy about everything,” Stewart says.
He likens the rigorous server training program to that of the Navy SEALs. Servers have to know every ingredient on the menu and recite 25 new specials each day — all while being personable. If they mess up an order, they’re expected to immediately report it and make it your gain by giving away a gift card as amends.
While there are white tablecloths, it doesn’t mean the servers are pretentious. It’s the opposite: Stewart creates a welcoming atmosphere.
“Everything goes back to the whole experience, the type of food, the friendliness, a certain professional casualness,” he says.
You might find him greeting diners in a sport coat and jeans. He lightens the mood with playful artwork like a painting of a mustachioed cowboy wearing a pink floral shirt.
The menu doesn’t take itself too seriously either, with fine dining fare — Colorado rack of lamb, Blue Point oysters and lobster tail — alongside laid-back eats like sauerkraut balls and fried pickles.
“We want to be that place [where] our food and service match how you feel that day,” Stewart says.
The menu changes monthly with seasonal ingredients. Currently find handheld duck quesadillas as well as fork-and-knife rotisserie duck. There’s also a penne pasta with spinach, arugula, pine nuts, garlic, shallots, olive oil and lemon that took the chef seven tries to perfect. Stewart saw that dish at a Boulder, Colorado, restaurant and was inspired to make his own version. Emulating dishes from Stewart’s travels keeps the restaurant fresh on current food trends.
Although his restaurant is successful, Stewart is constantly on guard against stagnation. He is continuously adapting to modern diners. A customer said his daughter would like more vegetarian options, so Stewart made a whole vegetarian menu and also developed gluten-free offerings to keep up with changing diets. Evolution keeps his restaurant thriving. Stewart is always looking for what isn’t working and is ready to hear customers’ suggestions.
“I try to operate from paranoia that we are one meal away from going out of business,” he says. “That paranoia keeps everybody sharp.”
1970 W. Market St., 330-867-2555, kenstewartsgrille.com
Trending: Avocado Everything
From a famous schmear on toast to a healthier fat substitute in baked goods, avocado has become the trendiest fruit of the past decade or so. Its formidable combo of high-nutrient content and rich taste makes it an easy choice for most.
At Pub Bricco, 330 Flavor Award winner for best veggie burger, Chef Jami Smallwood puts avocado to good use in the Veggie Delight offering ($8) that’s a fave among the many sandwich selections diners can customize by choosing a protein such as a veggie burger, lamb, chicken or beef, then specifying how it’s prepared.
To make the veggie burger — which is vegetarian but not vegan — Smallwood combines cooked hard barley, black beans, sun-dried tomatoes, spinach and mushrooms with an egg, breadcrumbs and Parmesan cheese as binders. The result is a complex patty that is softer than meat but not crumbly.
The Veggie Delight layers the grilled veggie patty with Boursin cheese, fresh spinach, roasted red peppers and avocado between slices of multigrain ciabatta for a meal even nonvegetarians love.
“Avocado goes really well with Boursin cheese — the creamy on the bottom — and then you have the crisp spinach and the creamy avocado on top that blends in a nice flavor profile and also gives it another bit of texture,” Smallwood says.
Because avocado is marketed as a superfood, many Bricco diners order it with their meal to feel extra healthy. “They add avocado to everything — our tacos, salads, wraps,” she says. “People love it.”
1841 Merriman Road, Akron,330-869-0035, pubbricco.com
A New Classic
Chef Beau Schmidt stays fresh in Akron’s ever-changing restaurant scene.
At the ripe age of 13, Beau Schmidt started working in restaurants. He began washing dishes and making pizzas at Papa Felice’s Pizza, and by age 19, he opened his first restaurant, Oakwood Grill. At only 26 years old, Schmidt opened his namesake restaurant, Beau’s Grille, now in the Hilton Akron Fairlawn. Twenty-five years later, all his ventures — including his Cuyahoga Falls restaurant, Beau’s on the River, and Colorado offshoot, Beau’s Kitchen & Tavern — are still going strong. The passion for food that Schmidt developed growing up in a family of professional cooks has driven him through the years.
“I like making people happy with food,” says Schmidt, who won the 330 Flavor Award for best chef in The 330.
With nearly 40 years in the local restaurant scene, Schmidt has seen seismic changes: More restaurants have closed than he can count, and new ones continuously change the game. He shares how the scene has evolved and how his restaurants have endured through it all.
Q: What popular local flavors are you seeing?
People are trying to keep things on the lighter side. They’re using more vinaigrettes than heavy sauces. It’s where a lot of people’s diets have gone: fresh vegetables, healthy grains and good, clean protein. They like farm raised and antibiotic free. I think it’s going to stay where it is for a while.
Q: How has the local restaurant scene changed?
The scene is more casual with dress, price and environment, too. You don’t see as many white tablecloths. People have learned to get away from fine dining a little bit because it’s costly.
Q: What has made your restaurants successful?
We try to stay with the times. We try to see what’s coming through the Midwest.There are more local products available now, so we try to use more local products.A lot of different flavors is what works best for our customers. So we tried to make a menu that they can have multiple favorite dishes. We offer a variety of lighter and heavier dishes. People still love the homemade old favorites, the meatloaves, Swiss steaks, stuffed peppers, roast beefs and gravies.
Q: What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned over the years?
With the growing community of restaurants, you’ve always got to think how you’re going to keep yourself relevant, whether that’s with your food, redecorating or service. How do you keep the best employees? How do you keep the place looking fresh and keep your menu fresh? It keeps you outlasting some of these chains.It’s scary to think that you can outlast chains when you’re a little independent guy, but we’ve outlasted so many of them. It’s unbelievable.
Beau’s Grille, 3180 W. Market St., Akron, 330-867-5218, beausgrille.com; Beau’s on the River, 1989 Front St., Cuyahoga Falls, 330-920-7530, beausontheriver.com
Trending: Raw Foods
Outside of sushi, raw fish may not appeal to everyone. But Anthony “T.J.” Armstrong, chef de cuisine at Kingfish in Copley, is aiming to change that with his seared Hawaiian tuna ($30).
“I wanted to bring something unique to a classic seafood dish,” he says. “It ended up being one of our No. 1 sellers.”
Kingfish, 330 Flavor Award winner for best seafood, flies in big-eye tuna fresh from Hawaii nearly every day for the dish that combines savory, sweet and nutty flavors for what Armstrong describes as “a party.”
The base of his concoction is an ancient grain called farro, which is similar to rice when raw but harder. “I overcook it on purpose, very slightly,” he says. “The texture is like oats with a little more density.”
After the farro has cooked in vegetable stock for about 45 minutes to soften, Armstrong slightly sautes zucchini, crooked neck squash and snap peas, leaving them a little crunchy. All these are married with the grain for a surprising pilaf that sets the stage for the main event.
“The tuna you have to season really well to get the flavor, so salt and pepper all around it vigorously,” he says. Then he sears each side for only 5 seconds. “That way it’s not cold in the middle.”
He slices the tuna very thinly and arranges it atop the pilaf. Then he goes for one more flourish: a citrus soy drizzle he crafts in house with onion, garlic, spices, brown sugar, honey, citrus and soy sauce.
The result is a complex dish of juxtaposed flavors that may awaken a palate to the joy of raw fish. “The raw tuna has a silky-smooth texture, [and] with the chewiness of the farro, the crisp vegetables and the acidity of the soy, it’s a complete bite.”
115 Montrose W. Ave., Copley,330-777-2005, kingfishakron.com
Trending: Share Plates
Table Six Kitchen & Bar was ahead of its time. When it opened in 2013 as a share plates-focused restaurant in Canton, there weren’t any other restaurants in Stark County that centered on the passable plates more prevalent in big cities. So local diners were puzzled by the notion of ordering several small plates for the table instead of individual meals. As the trend became more widespread, however, customers eventually warmed to the new approach and now love how it changes the dynamic of a dining experience.
“It creates more conversation at the table,” says Jaime Jaime Jr., executive chef at the 91 Restaurant Group that owns Table Six, 330 Flavor Award winner for best gastropub. “It’s getting more involved with eating out with friends and family.”
What’s the one share plate Table Six customers are going hog wild for? The maple pecan bacon ($6). Four thick-cut slabs of bacon are served in a fun pink pig bowl that gets the table squealing with excitement while the surprising flavor ups the wow factor.
To craft the showstopper, chefs hand-select quarter-inch slabs of evenly marbleized bacon. It’s caramelized with a unique topping of pecans, brown sugar, cayenne pepper, chili powder and Ohio maple syrup. The result is a sugary dish with a slight kick so flavorful that tables often order another pig-full.
“You get the sweetness from the brown sugar and the maple syrup, then you’ve got the spice from the powders and the saltiness from the bacon,” Jaime says. “The sweet-spicy mixture works really well.”
6113 Whipple Ave. NW, North Canton, 330-305-1666, table6canton.com
Better Together
Share food and be part of the group at the new Rm. 727 Gastropub.
Fraternities are social groups by definition. Ethan Moore was the 727th person to pledge the fraternity of Phi Delta Theta at Kent State University. So in May 2018 when he and his wife, Aileen, were getting ready to open a gastropub that encourages socializing, the number seemed natural for the name.
Rm. 727 Gastropub Head Chef Ernest Cornelius explains the rest of the name of this 330 Flavor Award winner for best new restaurant: “We decided that we would like to give a shareable tapas-style experience with Midwest flavors,” he says. “Room is promoting the sense [that] we’re all in a shared room together, so let’s share this experience.”
The menu includes only shareable plates — no entrees or sandwiches — in a warm, homey atmosphere. Soft leather chairs and sofas cluster around a cozy fireplace, rich wood surfaces and luxe paint colors abound, and movable tables and chairs encourage groups to intermingle. Outdoor seating and a bocce ball court with even more opportunities to socialize await warmer weather.
“We want people to enjoy each other’s company,” Cornelius says.
That collective ethos extends to local breweries, with whom the Moores partner for their popular spent-grain pizzas. Cornelius replaces a percentage of the flour for his pizza dough with grains from the brewing process from MadCap Brew Co. in Kent, Royal Docks Brewing Co. in Canton and others. “It gives it a very light, crispy crust,” he says. Like everything else, the pizzas are personal-sized for tasting and splitting. A popular choice is Mark’s Meatza ($14) with all the meats, fresh rosemary and sharp white cheddar.
To wash down the tasty eats, 27 rotating taps and three rotating nitro lines offer regional and local brews from Akronym Brewery, HiHo Brewing Co., Ignite Brewing Co., Maize Valley Brewery and others. Craft cocktails also tempt guests with fun selections like the Rm. 727 Handshake, which is a shot and beer of the bartender’s choosing.
One of Cornelius’ favorite menu items exemplifies his take on Midwest flavors: bratwurst mini corn dogs (three for $10) served with a fruit mustard and pickled plums. “I make all the sausage in house,” he says. “We have a sausage press. I buy all my meat locally. It’s out of this world.” Adding malt to the batter brings a sweetness many diners might associate with Whoppers candy or malted milkshakes, which balances the savory sausage. “A corn dog wants to be sweet, so adding that kind of batter takes it to the next level,” Cornelius says.
Having worked for years in intimate fine dining establishments, Cornelius thinks The 330 is ready for a new vibe that’s more communal.
“At Rm. 727, we really want to touch on that sense of community,” he says, “getting to meet people and enjoy beer, enjoy food and bring it all together as a group instead of an individual’s night out on the town.”
231 Darrow Road, Akron, 234-571-2738, rm727.com
Trending: BoozyTreats
Chocolate and alcohol are two of the sweetest sins. And now it’s easier than ever to indulge in both, as bakers are making desserts even more enticing by infusing their recipes with a hint of booze.
Give in to temptation with the Tipsy Turtle creation from Pandora’s Cupcakes, 330 Flavor Award winner for best cupcakes. The bourbon-inspired chocolate cupcake mixes the two worlds of dessert and alcohol together in a mouthwatering way. The Tipsy Turtle is made by first baking a chocolate cake base, then filling it with liquid caramel. The cupcake is crowned with a bourbon-flavored frosting, whole pecans and a thick caramel drizzle. The confection blends sweet, toasted nut and caramel flavors with the deep, charred oak and vanilla of the bourbon.
“It’s a nice flavor without the sharp edge, the smack of alcohol,” Owner Ken Carr says.
The decadent treat reminds Carr of bourbon balls his mother used to make when he was a kid in the ‘70s, except the chocolate pastries were filled with the real thing. He didn’t like them then but gets the appeal now.
While the name may be a bit of a tease — there is no actual alcohol in the dessert — the Tipsy Turtle’s blend of rich chocolate and bourbon tastes is irresistible to many. “Even though people aren’t trying to get a buzz off it, they still want those flavors together,” Carr says.
3571 Brookwall Drive, Unit G, Akron, 330-665-2253; 100 North Ave., Tallmadge, 234-738-0935, pandorascupcakes.com
Trending: Charcuterie Boards
The art of curing meats to preserve them has been around for centuries. But the trend of serving charcuterie boards of meat and cheese took The 330’s restaurant scene by storm just a few years ago. At the front of that scene is Tim Sahr, co-owner of Kent Cheesemonger, 330 Flavor Award winner for best charcuterie.
“It’s a very communal way of eating,” he says. “You set it on the table in the middle of a group, and everybody can just pick and choose little bits and pieces and talk about what they’re eating.”
Part of the reason Sahr opened his fine cheese, meat and wine shop in 2015 was to help guide others like himself who often feel at sea selecting from an array of unfamiliar items with fancy foreign names. When he hosts pairings in the shop, he encourages guests to disagree with his selections when they don’t line up with their tastes.
“The important thing in tasting fine wines, artisanal cheeses and cured meats is to figure out what you like so you can share with your friends or family,” he says. “It doesn’t have to be mysterious, snooty or hard to access.”
The Cheesemonger features meats from North Country Charcuterie of Columbus, which sources 95 percent of its ingredients from Ohio makers, as well as nitrate-free selections from Zoe’s Meats of California. Complements include bread from Brimfield Bread Oven and Kent State University wines produced in the university’s wine degree program at the Ashtabula campus.
Sahr recommends trying North Country’s Fino Salami ($15.99) with Fromage D’Affinois ($10.50). “If you have a really bold meat, it’s nice to go with a really creamy, soft cheese,” he says. “It gives a broader spectrum of flavors on your tongue.”
155 E. Erie St., Kent, Suite 201,330-593-5619, kentcheesemonger.com
Trending: Craft Spirits
*[EDITOR'S NOTE: After publication, the Akron location of Nuevo closed. The Cleveland location is still open.]
Say goodbye to the days of bottom-shelf tequila sunrise and sex on the beach shots. The craft movement has led drinkers of The 330 to embrace the finer side of their palates with higher-end beverages. Restaurants are not only handcrafting cocktails with expert care, but they are also mixing in custom spirits created just for them.
Nuevo Modern Mexican & Tequila Bar, 330 Flavor Award winner for best margarita, is raising the bar with its barrel-select margarita ($13) featuring custom-made tequila.
“It’s the era of craft liquor, craft cocktails, craft food, and people are really getting away from packaged. So this is perfect,” says Co-owner Lisa Hirt.
Along with her husband, Zachary, Lisa goes above and beyond to create the perfect craft tequila by regularly traveling to the distiller in Guadalajara, Mexico, to tweak the batch when the barrel empties.
“We sample and pick all the flavors ourselves. Every batch is a little different,” says Lisa, who spent three years with Zachary studying Mexican food to ensure the menu at Nuevo is authentic.
The 11-ounce margarita mixes the signature barrel-select tequila with Cointreau, house citrus and lime zested right at the bar. It makes for a unique blend of sweet, sour, oak, vanilla and spice flavors — but most memorable is the bright, juicy taste of the citrus that’s fresh and never frozen.
“Really what does it for all of our margaritas is our house-made citrus. It’s fresh-squeezed on the premises,” says Lisa “It’s why our margaritas are so well-known and so delicious. People absolutely come back because of it.”
nuevomodmex.com