Long-Term Landscaping

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When you look at the land around your home, it is vital to have a plan. Not only do you need to think about the positioning of each plant, but also the way they will grow. Landscaping for the long run is linked to planting in the autumn. There are certain plants that thrive if you get them in the ground late in the year. “Fall is a great time to plant,” says Tom Apidone from Petitti Garden Center in Tallmadge. “The ground temp is going to be warmer than the air, so the roots will get established a lot better. In the spring, your plants will be ready to go, pretty much rooted in.” Prepping now will yield beautiful results you can really enjoy come spring. Three local experts discuss the tricks and tips when it comes to fall planting. Learn about a few types of plants in this section.

Trees

Select the right tree for you

There are a few things to keep in mind when picking the perfect tree for your property. First thing to know is how much space you are working with. “Get the size tree that’s going to fit the property,” says John Kline from Canton Road Garden Center. “Don’t buy something that’s going to outgrow the house in five to six years because then it’s a matter of removing the tree and starting over. If you start with the proper tree, you won’t have that problem.”

It’s also important to recognize a star player when you see one. “The Cleveland Select Flowering Pear is a tree that should be away from the house. [Also], maples and oaks should be out in the yard where they have plenty of room to grow and won’t be confined by a house or wires.”

Beautiful trees also need the right conditions to thrive. “Dogwoods are much happier in the morning sun and the afternoon shade; they don’t like the intense heat of the summer,” says Kline. “If you can put them on the east side or among other trees, they’ll do much better.”

The best thing to do is to seek advice from an expert and see what tree fits best for your space.

How to Plant a Tree:

  • 1. Go wide, not deep. The hole for the new tree should be no deeper than the root ball itself, or the top of the pot the tree comes in. “Bring the tree out a little; never plant it deeper than it is in the pot.” It should also be six to seven inches wider than the root system or ball. “No deeper, but about six inches wider. Keep it fairly tight.”
  • 2. Mix it up. “As you’re digging the soil, put a conditioner in there: a mixture of peat moss and cow manure.” These conditioners should be mixed with the soil that comes out of the hole, and then returned to the hole.
  • 3. Get muddy. Wetting down that conditioning mixture will create a welcoming home for your new tree. “Put water in there almost to the top, and take the shovel and go up and down; make it like mud to take out any air pockets. Then do it again. This is the most important watering right here.”
  • 4. Don’t mess with the root ball. “When you buy a tree that’s balled in burlap, plant it just the way it is. Do not remove the burlap. The purpose is to hold dirt around the root system. If the dirt falls away from the root system, you run a 50/50 chance of losing the tree.” The same thing goes for larger trees that come with a metal cage around the root ball. “It is again to hold the dirt around the root system. I don’t recommend you remove that cage. The roots will grow right through it and support the tree, no problem.”
  • 5. Mind the graft. “[Trees] have a little knot at the ground level, where it’s grafted. If you cover that graft, the tree will go bad because of the moisture.” This area is also often called the trunk flare because it is the point at which the trunk widens just above the root ball. This area should be left exposed, above both dirt and mulch. “A lot of people want to cover that because it’s not pretty, [but] you want it on top of the ground—very important.”
  • 6. Mulch it much. “Mulch two to three inches deep, [but] make sure the graft is above that, to hold the moisture in and keep soil at a constant temperature.”
  • 7. Don’t over-water. “So many people want to overwater a tree, and that is totally unnecessary. Once it gets into the soil, it’s going to take a long time to dry out. It’s very important just to keep it moist [but] not drown it. Every two to three days, put a gallon of water at the most, to keep the mulch nice and moist. Too much water that doesn’t drain away properly—you’ll lose that tree. If you get any rain, just let it go. If it starts to wilt, that’s a notice it needs a little drink.”
  • 8. Don’t over-feed. “The first year, the conditioner should be sufficient. Then the second year, we don’t like the tree spikes; we prefer a more organic material.” But again, don’t overdo the fertilizers. “Follow directions on the bag.” Or talk to an expert for advice.
  • 9. Prune prudently. “Spring blooming trees—dogwoods, crabapples, magnolias, azaleas, rhododendrons—you want to trim as soon as they’re done blooming.” That means late spring or early summer. “If you prune in fall, you’re going to cut buds off for spring, and you won’t have blooms.” Non-flowering trees, like maples and oaks, can be trimmed anytime because they don’t have the same bud cycle.

Shrubs

Words of Wisdom

Flowering shrubs are beautiful, but there can be a problem when you factor in wildlife. “With azaleas and rhododendrons, deer like to eat the flower buds, so protect them over the winter [with] repellent products,” says Apidone. Surrounding plants with netting or wiring can help protect them from deer damage. Wrappings can also protect plants from seasonal damage during a tough winter. “Arborvitae wrap with burlap to keep deer off and keep the plant tighter; if you get a snow load on it, it won’t bend or break the plant.”

Size and location are also important. Not all plants are good in full sun. “Azaleas and rhododendrons are not for full sun; morning sun is okay, but [they need] partial shade. Forsythia you don’t want to put in between two shrubs, as it will get big and crowd out others.”

Water is a vital part of the growing process. It is also very important for shrubs. “Most people water sparingly because they don’t want a big bill,” says Apidone. “Our technique, especially with those that dry out like hydrangea, is: we’ll water it, then go to the next plant, then come back to water the hydrangea again. In well-drained soil, water will run right through, but it takes a while for that plant to absorb the water.”

Tree or bush?

“Sometimes it’s a matter of semantics. A tree has more of a trunk, rather than multi-branching, though there are exceptions. Clump birch have multiple trunks, as do clump redbuds. A shrub is considered smaller and without a definite trunk.”

Shrubs to Love:

Lilac

  • Early bloomer
  • Wide variety of colors and sizes
  • Dwarf varieties available, as well as “lilac trees” that have been grafted onto a trunk
  • Full sun

Azaleas and Rhododendrons

  • A variety of colors
  • Prefer morning sun and afternoon shade
  • Expury Hybrid azalea is deciduous (loses foliage in winter) with vibrant blooms in spring

Forsythia

  • One of the earliest bloomers
  • Lots of varieties of color and size, including dwarf varieties

Magnolias

  • Yes, these are trees, but the genus includes shrub varieties, as well
  • Make sure these go into well-drained soil
  • Some newer varieties will keep their blooms longer than the traditional trees

Bulbs

Tips and advice for planting bulbs

1. Choose well

  • Read the tag. Instruction tags in the pots will tell you when that variety will bloom, for how long, and how tall they will get. This will help you plan what your garden will look like in the spring.
  • Size matters. Bulbs are sold by size relative to their variety. “You might find a bargain, but the bulbs might be very small and yield a smaller flower.” Choose mid-size or larger within the bulb variety for a good display.

2. Plan ahead

  • Plant later: mid- to late October or early November. “If you plant too early, they’ll start to grow and get burned by frost. Bulbs need 10-12 weeks of cold to develop their root system.”
  • Make your bed well. “It needs to be a well-drained bed or they’ll rot. Add compost or Sweet Peat to help it drain better.”
  • Be complementary. “Plant in between annuals or where you’re not planting annuals, so you don’t have to worry about them competing.” This will also create staggered blooming throughout the spring into summer and beyond.
  • Go with a group. “If you don’t plant in clumps of three or five or more, they don’t look very important. In a group, you have a bigger splash of color.”

3. Raise ‘Em Right

  • Keep critters at bay. “Spray bulbs with a repellent, like Repels-All or Liquid Fence, the day before planting to keep digging animals away [like] squirrels and chipmunks.”
  • Feed them well. “A fertilizer like Bulb Tone is all organic and has micro nutrients to build a strong root system and make stems stronger.”
  • Let them be. “After the bulbs are done blooming, if you want [them] to come back, don’t cut them down until the foliage turns brown. You’ll have an ugly spell, [but] they go into a mode of regenerating life by using nutrients in the stems and leaves, and they multiply underground.” This is a good reason to plant bulbs amid later-blooming perennials that can hide the ugly bulb leftovers.

Types of bulbs to consider:

Daffodils

  • Most common bulb
  • Not only available in yellow, but also in white and shades or tints of yellow with orange or white
  • Dwarf daffodils, known as Tete’tete, make a lovely border
  • Deer-resistant (deer don’t like the taste of them, so leave them alone)

Tulips

  • Delicious to deer—ergo not as popular
  • Largest variety of bright colors
  • Variety of shapes beyond the typical: vase-shape or graceful double- flowering that looks like peony

Hyacinth

  • Known as “the Easter flower”
  • Tall, spikey bloom with great fragrance
  • Looks lovely in a bed among other flowers
  • Come in a variety of pastel colors

Grape Hyacinth

  • Low-growing, about four inches in height
  • Purple cluster-type blooms

Allium

  • Deer-resistant
  • Purple ball-like bloom on tall sturdy stems
  • Add a lot of drama to a bed
  • Will multiply after the first planting
  • Bloom in late May, after other bulbs are done
  • Lisa Graf’s favorite!

Crocus

  • Early bloomers
  • Bright colors: yellow, purple, white
  • Grow low to ground

Snowdrops

  • Early bloomers
  • Delicate drop-like white bloom often appears through snow or early spring frost
  • Low-growing and small, so plant where they’ll be seen close-up