Dining Destination: Detroit
D E T R O I T
Golden Fleece
When people first order the flaming cheese at Golden Fleece, they often expect a flicker. But when a server brings out the saganaki ($8), it more closely resembles a blaze — and it’s often taller than your head.
“People get scared when they’re not expecting. First-timers are funny,” says Co-owner Spero Dionysopoulos.
The flame is a playful flourish American Greektown restaurants add to liven up the traditional Greek fried cheese dish. Golden Fleece starts the fire with vodka, not brandy like some others use, so there’s no residual taste. Since it’s the oldest restaurant in Detroit’s Greektown and the owners are second-generation Greek Americans, showcasing the kasseri cheese imported from Greece is important.
“You’re lighting the alcohol and it burns out. You’re keeping the integrity of the cheese,” Dionysopoulos says. A splash of lemon complements saltiness and helps extinguish the flame, leaving a gooey breaded cheese to spread on crusty Greek bread or house-made pita.
“The perfect saganaki has a little crust on the outside, it stretches,” he adds.
Ordering saganaki has become a must-do experience for generations of locals and a way to introduce newcomers to what Greektown is all about.
“Just like saganaki, Greektown is fun,” Dionysopoulos says. “When you light it, you say, ‘Opa!’ — that means cheers. It’s representative of Greektown — people are always happy here.”
525 Monroe St., Detroit, 313-962-7093, goldenfleecedetroit.com
Al-ameer Restaurant: Taste authentic Middle Eastern cuisine at Al-Ameer Restaurant started by Lebanese immigrants. The winner of the James Beard America’s Classic award earns praise for its stuffed lamb served over cinnamon rice ($17.95). Marinated baby lamb from Al-Ameer’s halal butcher becomes tender and juicy after roasting for almost five hours. “It’s very delicate,” says General Manager Hassan Hashem. 12710 W. Warren Ave., Dearborn
Cheat Treats Cafe: Indulge in guilty pleasures with slightly less guilt. The foot-tall Fred Flinstone Freakshake ($12) cuts back with a Stevia milkshake packed with cotton candy, a Rice Krispies treat, M&M’s, rock candy and a signature low-fat, high-protein cheesecake without added sugars or butter. “As soon as we bring them out, their eyes light up,” says Owner Ali Hasem. “They don’t know where to start.” 5838 Schaefer Road, Dearborn
While You’re There: Off of the neon-lit Monroe Street, find Greektown Casino, baklava at Astoria Pastry Shop and ouzo at Bakaliko Greek market from the Golden Fleece owners.