Carryout Guide: Thyme2

In a world of uncertainty, familiar food hits the spot. Giving in to those cravings feels new with Thyme2 chef and Culinary Institute of America grad John Kolar’s Benedict burger ($12.50). It delivers the taste of eggs Benedict on a classic burger and shows off the gourmet flair he honed working in New York City.

Kolar starts by improving upon the basics: Each 8-ounce patty is hand-shaped from a tenderloin and boneless chuck blend from K&K Portage Market, a Cleveland butcher shop his family owns. There is no tough, freezer-burned meat here.

“Our burgers are considerably light and fluffy,” he says. “Then we use Orlando [Baking Co.] challah, which is a little extra egg, a rich bun. We rub that with butter and toast that.”

He upgrades the standard hollandaise to an herby lemon aioli akin to a fancier French bearnaise sauce.

“It’s creamy. It’s rich. It’s got a little tarragon and garlic flavor,” Kolar says. “Nice and savory.”

Diners have said the dish, which is served with a house salad or hand-cut fries, is “to die for,” and Kolar attributes the rave reviews to the over-easy egg that sits atop the burger with smoky grilled ham and Muenster. It’s served firmer for carryout, but that burst at the first bite remains a showstopper.

“As soon as the egg breaks, it infuses so much flavor and warmth,” he says.

Those kinds of culinary surprises, rarely devised by home cooks, have been driving Thyme2’s explosion of carryout orders during the pandemic. Kolar also offers family meal packs on weeknights with his interpretations of staples his mom used to make, like manicotti made from Ohio City Pasta that was served with a house tiramisu. Kolar knows how to feed into people’s homestyle appetite as only a chef can.

“It’s a comfort food thing,” Kolar says. “In this time, I think we’re all looking for a bit of comfort.”

My Favorite Carryout: Chipotle chicken and shrimp pasta from Corkscrew Saloon in Medina. “It’s a homemade pasta. The shrimp has nice and crisp, bright flavors,” says Thyme2 chef John Kolar.

Carryout, dine in or curbside pickup, 113 W. Smith Road, Medina, 330-764-4114, thymetherestaurant.com

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